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| cleanit:reddit-non-reddit-links [2026/10/08 14:01] – [- When The Rinse Washes You Clean, You'll Know - Citric Acid Rinses] greatwhitebuffalo41 | cleanit:reddit-non-reddit-links [2026/10/08 15:17] (current) – [- Scrud: The Dirtiest Word In Laundry] greatwhitebuffalo41 |
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| | ====== Laundry ====== |
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| ===== - Laundry 101 with u/KismaiAesthetics ===== | ===== - Laundry 101 with u/KismaiAesthetics ===== |
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| ===== - Sunscreen stains- what cause them, how to prevent & remove them ===== | ===== - Sunscreen stains- what cause them, how to prevent & remove them by u/Fair-Shift1962 ===== |
| [[:https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/comments/1pma9og/sunscreen_stains_what_cause_them_how_to_prevent/|Original Link]] by Reddit u/Fair-Shift-1962 **Editors Note:** This will include a fair amount of images that apparently refuse to load. I also fixed some formatting from the original post. | [[https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/comments/1pma9og/sunscreen_stains_what_cause_them_how_to_prevent/|Original Link]] by Reddit u/Fair-Shift-1962 **Editors Note:** This will include a fair amount of images that apparently refuse to load. I also fixed some formatting from the original post. |
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| === so first thing- uv filters === | === so first thing- uv filters === |
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| ''//<Image of a traditional color wheel here>//'' (similar to [[:https://us2-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.pinimg.com%2Foriginals%2F8d%2Fca%2Fbb%2F8dcabb1daf04c9cb840b0838085a9e7f.jpg&sp=1791464209T418ac9b82f42d34cda3c22f039919bf4cef680819f5d89249f7ae33d4a4189c0|This one]] with image text: color pallete- as u see yellow counteracts violet/purple | ''//<Image of a traditional color wheel here>//'' (similar to [[https://us2-browse.startpage.com/av/anon-image?piurl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.pinimg.com%2Foriginals%2F8d%2Fca%2Fbb%2F8dcabb1daf04c9cb840b0838085a9e7f.jpg&sp=1791464209T418ac9b82f42d34cda3c22f039919bf4cef680819f5d89249f7ae33d4a4189c0|This one]] with image text: color pallete- as u see yellow counteracts violet/purple |
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| almost all chemical/ organic filters are yellow becouse they need to absorb ultra violet rays, and as u see- yellow absorbs violete color (the only organic filters i know to have white color are: tinosorb m - white powder which works like in-organic (mineral) & organic filter in the same time, second organic uv filter i know to have white color is HAA299 - aka basf competitor to loreal's mexoryl 400 / mce, and the third one is uvinul a2b) | almost all chemical/ organic filters are yellow becouse they need to absorb ultra violet rays, and as u see- yellow absorbs violete color (the only organic filters i know to have white color are: tinosorb m - white powder which works like in-organic (mineral) & organic filter in the same time, second organic uv filter i know to have white color is HAA299 - aka basf competitor to loreal's mexoryl 400 / mce, and the third one is uvinul a2b) |
| and polyquats are very well known to cause stains | and polyquats are very well known to cause stains |
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| i reccomend look into [[:https://www.reddit.com/user/KismaiAesthetics/|u/KismaiAesthetics]] post about polyquats https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/comments/1m8r0lv/polyquat_spots/ | i reccomend look into [[https://www.reddit.com/user/KismaiAesthetics/|u/KismaiAesthetics]] post about polyquats https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/comments/1m8r0lv/polyquat_spots/ |
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| (korean sunscreens due less resistant film formers are not resistant to sweat& water are more appopriate to city use, not beach use. And if u gonna use them on beach u must to reapply every 2 h) | (korean sunscreens due less resistant film formers are not resistant to sweat& water are more appopriate to city use, not beach use. And if u gonna use them on beach u must to reapply every 2 h) |
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| ===== - When The Rinse Washes You Clean, You'll Know - Citric Acid Rinses ===== | ===== - When The Rinse Washes You Clean, You'll Know - Citric Acid Rinses by u/KismaiAesthetics ===== |
| **Original Post:** [[https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/comments/1nhdr0r/when_the_rinse_washes_you_clean_youll_know_citric/|Here]] by u/KismaiAesthetics | **Original Post:** [[https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/comments/1nhdr0r/when_the_rinse_washes_you_clean_youll_know_citric/|Here]] by u/KismaiAesthetics |
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| ===== Polyquat Spots ===== | ===== - Polyquat Spots by u/KismaiAesthetics ===== |
| **Original Post:** [[https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/comments/1m8r0lv/polyquat_spots/|here by u/KismaiAesthetics]] **Editors Note:** there are images in here that will not transfer over. I did my best to include descriptions. | **Original Post:** [[https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/comments/1m8r0lv/polyquat_spots/|here by u/KismaiAesthetics]] **Editors Note:** there are images in here that will not transfer over. I did my best to include descriptions. |
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| You’ve been sent here because it’s likely the mystery stains on your clothes that develop in the wash and won’t come out are Polyquat Spots. This document was last updated on 07/25/25. | You’ve been sent here because it’s likely the mystery stains on your clothes that develop in the wash and won’t come out are Polyquat Spots. |
| r/laundry - Child's Ivory-Colored Cotton Sweatshirt Displaying Characteristic Polyquat Spots With Blue-Violet Polyquat Stains | |
| Child's Ivory-Colored Cotton Sweatshirt Displaying Characteristic Polyquat Spots With Blue-Violet Polyquat Stains | |
| What are Polyquat Spots? | |
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| Polyquat Spots are areas on fabric that attract dirt and soil in the wash, caused by exposure to a class of clear flexible polymers called polyquaterniums, referred to in the rest of the document as polyquat. Polyquat Spots should be suspected when garments develop stains after wet washing processes that don’t come out with standard stain removal treatments. Polyquat Spots and their associated Polyquat Stains often have a distinctive look and feel - slightly shiny, transparent to translucent, not raised or rough. They are never lighter in color than the fabric underneath. They typically do not penetrate the fabric completely unless the textile is very lightweight and the contamination was direct (like from a conditioner bottle leaking in a suitcase). They cannot generally spread from one garment to another unless there's enough concentrated wet polyquat in direct contact with a second item. | This document was last updated on 07/25/25 (on reddit by [[https://www.reddit.com/user/KismaiAesthetics/|u/KismaeAesthetics]]) |
| What are Polyquats? | |
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| There are currently 116 registered polyquat compounds - while not all are known to cause staining, many do. The common characteristic is structural - there is a quarternary ammonium compound in the center of the molecule with various moieties hanging off it. While this framework is structurally and chemically similar to the quaternary ammonium compounds used in laundry sanitizers, disinfectants and antibacterial skin preparations, they impart no direct antibacterial benefit in polyquat polymers. The diagram below represents Polyquaternum-7, one of the most notorious of the class for causing stains. | |
| r/laundry - A Chemical Structure Diagram Of Polyquaternium-7, A Notorious Source Of Polyquat Spots | |
| A Chemical Structure Diagram Of Polyquaternium-7, A Notorious Source Of Polyquat Spots | |
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| Functionally, polyquats are used when a product needs to form a thin, smooth layer upon application to the skin or hair. They’re also used to ensure good foaming performance by strengthening bubble walls. This latter capability is exploited by manufacturers of commercial bubble solution in children’s toys and for use in bubble machines. Polyquat-enriched bubbles are often large, long-lasting and pleasantly iridescent in color. This film forming capability can deliver conditioning, moisturizing and product feel benefits in personal care products that last throughout the expected period of use. Importantly, they are positively charged (cationic) and seek out negative charges, frequently found in damaged hair or dry skin. | **//< An image of: Child's Ivory-Colored Cotton Sweatshirt Displaying Characteristic Polyquat Spots With Blue-Violet Polyquat Stains>//** |
| r/laundry - Pure Polyquaternium-7 Before It Destroys Clothing | |
| Pure Polyquaternium-7 Before It Destroys Clothing | |
| Where Is The Polyquat Coming From? | |
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| The most common offenders are: | |
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| Shampoos (especially 2-in-1 formulae) | === What are Polyquat Spots? === |
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| Conditioners | **Polyquat Spots** are areas on fabric that attract dirt and soil in the wash, caused by exposure to a class of clear flexible polymers called polyquaterniums, referred to in the rest of the document as **polyquat**. **Polyquat Spots** should be suspected when garments develop stains after wet washing processes that don’t come out with standard stain removal treatments. Polyquat Spots and their associated **Polyquat Stains** often have a distinctive look and feel - slightly shiny, transparent to translucent, not raised or rough. They are never lighter in color than the fabric underneath. They typically do not penetrate the fabric completely unless the textile is very lightweight and the contamination was direct (like from a conditioner bottle leaking in a suitcase). They cannot generally spread from one garment to another unless there's enough concentrated wet polyquat in direct contact with a second item. |
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| Heat Protection Sera | |
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| Anti-Frizz/Anti-Static Sera | === What are Polyquats? === |
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| Liquid Hand Soaps Including Softsoap Brand | There are currently 116 registered polyquat compounds - while not all are known to cause staining, many do. The common characteristic is structural - there is a quarternary ammonium compound in the center of the molecule with various moieties hanging off it. While this framework is structurally and chemically similar to the quaternary ammonium compounds used in laundry sanitizers, disinfectants and antibacterial skin preparations, they impart no direct antibacterial benefit in polyquat polymers. The diagram below represents Polyquaternum-7, one of the most notorious of the class for causing stains. |
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| Bubble Bath | |
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| Hair Mousse | **//<An image of: A Chemical Structure Diagram Of Polyquaternium-7, A Notorious Source Of Polyquat Spots>//** |
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| Gel | Functionally, polyquats are used when a product needs to form a thin, smooth layer upon application to the skin or hair. They’re also used to ensure good foaming performance by strengthening bubble walls. This latter capability is exploited by manufacturers of commercial bubble solution in children’s toys and for use in bubble machines. Polyquat-enriched bubbles are often large, long-lasting and pleasantly iridescent in color. This film forming capability can deliver conditioning, moisturizing and product feel benefits in personal care products that last throughout the expected period of use. Importantly, they are positively charged (cationic) and seek out negative charges, frequently found in damaged hair or dry skin. |
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| Hairsprays | |
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| Beard Smoothing Serum | **//<An image of: Pure Polyquaternium-7 Before It Destroys Clothing in a petri dish>//** |
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| Conditioning / Moisturizing Bar Soaps and Shampoo Bars | |
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| Sunscreens | === Where Is The Polyquat Coming From? === |
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| Personal Lubricants For Adult Purposes | |
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| | The most common offenders are: |
| | * Shampoos (especially 2-in-1 formulae) |
| | * Conditioners |
| | * Heat Protection Sera |
| | * Anti-Frizz/Anti-Static Sera |
| | * Liquid Hand Soaps Including Softsoap Brand |
| | * Bubble Bath |
| | * Hair Mousse |
| | * Gel |
| | * Hairsprays |
| | * Beard Smoothing Serum |
| | * Conditioning / Moisturizing Bar Soaps and Shampoo Bars |
| | * Sunscreens |
| | * Personal Lubricants For Adult Purposes |
| And, most notorious in r/Laundry, | And, most notorious in r/Laundry, |
| | * Commercial bubble solutions for bubble guns, wands and machines |
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| Commercial bubble solutions for bubble guns, wands and machines | |
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| How Do Polyquats Get On Fabric? | === How Do Polyquats Get On Fabric? === |
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| They get on fabrics by direct contact, by diluted drips or rubs off hair or skin, from contaminated hands, or by indirect contact with drops on a bathroom floor, counter or other hard surface. | They get on fabrics by direct contact, by diluted drips or rubs off hair or skin, from contaminated hands, or by indirect contact with drops on a bathroom floor, counter or other hard surface. |
| What Happens When Polyquats Touch Fabric? | |
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| These polymers electrically bond to negatively-charged regions of fibers (especially cotton and semi-synthetics like rayon, viscose, acetate, “bamboo”, modal, Tencel and Lyocell). They then leave an invisible layer with a residual positive charge that is electrically attracted to dirt and dye in the wash water. These clear Polyquat Spots then become “color catchers”, attracting and bonding a color layer to the clear spot, making them visible as a Polyquat Stain. They often appear “wet” or “greasy” but can be any shade found in the wash water. Thus, a light-colored garment with clear Polyquat Spots might pick up blue-grey color when washed with black and blue items, resulting in a dull blue-grey stain layer. A red item with clear Polyquat Spots washed with a green item that is contributing fugitive dye may appear to have dark grey or black Polyquat Stains. A white item with Polyquat Spots washed with an item soiled with red clay may get a Polyquat Stain that looks like rust or red clay. | |
| Great Explanation, Nerd - What Can Be Done? | |
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| This is where the bad news starts. | === What Happens When Polyquats Touch Fabric? === |
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| Polyquat Spots and the associated colored Polyquat Stains are some of the hardest to address at home or by professional dry cleaners. r/Laundry contributors have tried everything known to mankind to remove these, and there’s no practical one-shot treatment that consistently removes the Polyquat Spot and keeps it from returning. | These polymers electrically bond to negatively-charged regions of fibers (especially cotton and semi-synthetics like rayon, viscose, acetate, “bamboo”, modal, Tencel and Lyocell). They then leave an invisible layer with a residual positive charge that is electrically attracted to dirt and dye in the wash water. These clear **Polyquat Spots** then become “color catchers”, attracting and bonding a color layer to the clear spot, making them visible as a **Polyquat Stain**. They often appear “wet” or “greasy” but can be any shade found in the wash water. Thus, a light-colored garment with clear **Polyquat Spots** might pick up blue-grey color when washed with black and blue items, resulting in a dull blue-grey stain layer. A red item with clear **Polyquat Spots** washed with a green item that is contributing fugitive dye may appear to have dark grey or black **Polyquat Stains**. A white item with **Polyquat Spots** washed with an item soiled with red clay may get a P**olyquat Stain** that looks like rust or red clay. |
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| What you can do sometimes is remove the color a Polyquat Spot has acquired and then be very careful on subsequent washes to keep it from picking up color again. Eventually, with normal laundering, the polyquat can fall off or become less attractive to fugitive dye and soils in the wash, and the garment may then be laundered with progressively decreasing risk of recurrence. This requires on the order of 12-20 perfect washes. | |
| Decoloring Polyquat Stains: | |
| r/laundry - Sodium Dithionite Powder - The Path To Turn Polyquat Stains Back To Polyquat Spots | |
| Sodium Dithionite Powder - The Path To Turn Polyquat Stains Back To Polyquat Spots | |
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| The recommended method of decoloring Polyquat Stains is with a class of chemicals known as reduction bleaches. They are commonly sold as color run or dye removers. There’s an extensive document with brand recommendations from around the world at r/laundry/s/QaKkCN3faz along with comprehensive instructions. You’ll basically soak the affected garments in a warm solution of this color run remover just long enough to remove the surface color and turn the Stains back to clear Spots, then stop the action by soaking in cold water. This method does not work if the dye forming the stain color layer is an indigo or other leuco dye such as vat dye, common in denim and garment-dyed cottons. Finally, you’ll wash using detergents with specific ingredients and color catcher sheets to complete the neutralization and hopefully keep color off the stains. | === Great Explanation, Nerd - What Can Be Done? === |
| Relapse Prevention: | |
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| The decoloring process only removes the color layer off the stained top of the clear Polyquat Spot. It does not remove the polyquat entirely (although there’s some rational basis that it may help make it less attractive to dye and soil from wash water). After the decoloring process, it’s imperative that your wash process not expose the contaminated garments to new color sources. | This is where the bad news starts. |
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| Step 1: Sorting Aggressively | **Polyquat Spots** and the associated colored **Polyquat Stains** are some of the hardest to address at home or by professional dry cleaners. [[https://www.reddit.com/r/Laundry/|r/Laundry]] contributors have tried everything known to mankind to remove these, and there’s no practical one-shot treatment that consistently removes the Polyquat Spot and keeps it from returning. |
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| Garments that have Polyquat Spots need to be washed with like colors only. An example sort would be: | What you can do sometimes is remove the color a Polyquat Spot has acquired and then be very careful on subsequent washes to keep it from picking up color again. Eventually, with normal laundering, the polyquat can fall off or become less attractive to fugitive dye and soils in the wash, and the garment may then be laundered with progressively decreasing risk of recurrence. This requires on the order of 12-20 perfect washes. |
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| Blacks, charcoals, navy blues and dark browns | |
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| Dark blues and greens | === Decoloring Polyquat Stains: === |
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| | **//<Image of: Sodium Dithionite Powder in a jar - The Path To Turn Polyquat Stains Back To Polyquat Spots//** |
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| Dark reds and purples | The recommended method of decoloring Polyquat Stains is with a class of chemicals known as reduction bleaches. They are commonly sold as color run or dye removers. There’s an extensive document with brand recommendations from around the world at [[https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/s/QaKkCN3faz/|r/laundry/s/QaKkCN3faz]] along with comprehensive instructions. You’ll basically soak the affected garments in a warm solution of this color run remover just long enough to remove the surface color and turn the Stains back to clear Spots, then stop the action by soaking in cold water. This method does not work if the dye forming the stain color layer is an indigo or other leuco dye such as vat dye, common in denim and garment-dyed cottons. Finally, you’ll wash using detergents with specific ingredients and color catcher sheets to complete the neutralization and hopefully keep color off the stains. |
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| Light blues and greens | |
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| Light reds and purples | === Relapse Prevention: === |
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| Neutrals like khaki, tan, ecru, light grey and taupe | The decoloring process only removes the color layer off the stained top of the clear Polyquat Spot. It does not remove the polyquat entirely (although there’s some rational basis that it may help make it less attractive to dye and soil from wash water). After the decoloring process, it’s imperative that your wash process not expose the contaminated garments to new color sources. |
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| Whites with stripes / embellishments | **Step 1: Sorting Aggressively** |
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| Absolute plain whites | Garments that have Polyquat Spots need to be washed with like colors only. An example sort would be: |
| | * Blacks, charcoals, navy blues and dark browns |
| | * Dark blues and greens |
| | * Dark reds and purples |
| | * Light blues and greens |
| | * Light reds and purples |
| | * Neutrals like khaki, tan, ecru, light grey and taupe |
| | * Whites with stripes / embellishments |
| | * Absolute plain whites |
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| Less stringent sorting raises the risk of making the clear Polyquat Spot become colored and visible again. | Less stringent sorting raises the risk of making the clear Polyquat Spot become colored and visible again. |
| It's also important to avoid washing garments with Polyquat Spots in loads with high levels of particulate soils like clay, dirt, dust, automotive grime and soot. | It's also important to avoid washing garments with Polyquat Spots in loads with high levels of particulate soils like clay, dirt, dust, automotive grime and soot. |
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| Step 2: Using The Right Detergent | |
| | **Step 2: Using The Right Detergent** |
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| Garments with clear Polyquat Spots need to be washed with detergents that contain anti-redeposition agents - these are surfactants and polymers that keep removed dirt and fugitive dye up in the wash water and unavailable to the clear spots. Most top-tier detergents contain one or more antiredeposition agents such as carboxymethylcellulose, anionic polyesters and polyacrylic acids. They may be described as “cleaning aids” or "antiredeposition agents" on labels. Many discount or plant-based products omit antiredeposition agents. The omission makes washing with them more likely to allow fugitive dye and removed soils to recolor the clear Polyquat Spots. An alternative method is to use a small amount of a dye-suspending detergent called Synthrapol, available at art supply stores, speciality quilt and yarn shops and online, to each load of laundry. One tablespoon per front loader or HE wash or two tablespoons per conventional top loader should be sufficient. | Garments with clear Polyquat Spots need to be washed with detergents that contain anti-redeposition agents - these are surfactants and polymers that keep removed dirt and fugitive dye up in the wash water and unavailable to the clear spots. Most top-tier detergents contain one or more antiredeposition agents such as carboxymethylcellulose, anionic polyesters and polyacrylic acids. They may be described as “cleaning aids” or "antiredeposition agents" on labels. Many discount or plant-based products omit antiredeposition agents. The omission makes washing with them more likely to allow fugitive dye and removed soils to recolor the clear Polyquat Spots. An alternative method is to use a small amount of a dye-suspending detergent called Synthrapol, available at art supply stores, speciality quilt and yarn shops and online, to each load of laundry. One tablespoon per front loader or HE wash or two tablespoons per conventional top loader should be sufficient. |
| Detergents with anionic surfactants may help reduce the color-attractiveness of the clear spots with consistent use. These will be described on the label as either “anionic surfactants” generally, or will have names with sulfate, sulfonate, and gluconate high in the ingredient list. | Detergents with anionic surfactants may help reduce the color-attractiveness of the clear spots with consistent use. These will be described on the label as either “anionic surfactants” generally, or will have names with sulfate, sulfonate, and gluconate high in the ingredient list. |
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| Step 3: Using Color Catchers | **Step 3: Using Color Catchers** |
| r/laundry - A Popular Brand Of Color Catcher Sheet New And After Exposure To A Load Of Darks | |
| A Popular Brand Of Color Catcher Sheet New And After Exposure To A Load Of Darks | **//<Image of: Shout, A Popular Brand Of Color Catcher Sheet. 1 unused white, 1 used dark gray with image text: New And After Exposure To A Load Of Darks//** |
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| The most important adjunct to keeping Polyquat Spots from recoloring while the polyquat washes and wears out are disposable color catchers. These are usually white non-woven textile sheets, like a dryer sheet, that go in the wash with the laundry and are themselves coated with polyquats or similar positively-charged polymers to provide a more attractive target for the negatively-charged dye or dirt in the wash water. You should use one per light or white load and two per colored load if the load contains a garment with a suspected or treated clear Polyquat Spot. Whatever color they turn in the wash water is the color that the Polyquat Spot would have taken had the color catcher not been used, and the used sheets can be useful to identify which items in a load are giving up color to the wash water. There are several brands including Shout Color Catcher, Carbona Color Grabber and many others including store brands and generics. They all work about the same - buy whatever’s cheap and available to you. If you have a front-loading washer, as a precaution, it’s a good practice to put the color catcher sheets in a mesh delicates bag. This keeps them from slipping out of the wash and getting between the basket and drum, or ending up in the filter or pump or down the drain. | The most important adjunct to keeping Polyquat Spots from recoloring while the polyquat washes and wears out are disposable color catchers. These are usually white non-woven textile sheets, like a dryer sheet, that go in the wash with the laundry and are themselves coated with polyquats or similar positively-charged polymers to provide a more attractive target for the negatively-charged dye or dirt in the wash water. You should use one per light or white load and two per colored load if the load contains a garment with a suspected or treated clear Polyquat Spot. Whatever color they turn in the wash water is the color that the Polyquat Spot would have taken had the color catcher not been used, and the used sheets can be useful to identify which items in a load are giving up color to the wash water. There are several brands including Shout Color Catcher, Carbona Color Grabber and many others including store brands and generics. They all work about the same - buy whatever’s cheap and available to you. If you have a front-loading washer, as a precaution, it’s a good practice to put the color catcher sheets in a mesh delicates bag. This keeps them from slipping out of the wash and getting between the basket and drum, or ending up in the filter or pump or down the drain. |
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| There are “permanent” or “reusable” color catchers, often based on a surface-treated synthetic fiber. While they work well in typical wash conditions to prevent frank bleeding from dying victim garments, they aren’t attractive enough to fugitive dye to outcompete a clear Polyquat Spot for the attention of fugitive dye and soils. | There are “permanent” or “reusable” color catchers, often based on a surface-treated synthetic fiber. While they work well in typical wash conditions to prevent frank bleeding from dying victim garments, they aren’t attractive enough to fugitive dye to outcompete a clear Polyquat Spot for the attention of fugitive dye and soils. |
| Can Polyquat Spots and Stains Be Prevented? | |
| | === Can Polyquat Spots and Stains Be Prevented? === |
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| Yes, with an asterisk. The best prevention is to meticulously avoid contact between polyquats in their wet state and textiles that you care about. Make sure that containers of polyquat-containing products in suitcases or gym bags are isolated from vulnerable textiles, dry hair thoroughly before it touches fabrics and make bubble solution for kids using dish soap, glycerin and non-quat polymers such as carboxymethylcellulose. | Yes, with an asterisk. The best prevention is to meticulously avoid contact between polyquats in their wet state and textiles that you care about. Make sure that containers of polyquat-containing products in suitcases or gym bags are isolated from vulnerable textiles, dry hair thoroughly before it touches fabrics and make bubble solution for kids using dish soap, glycerin and non-quat polymers such as carboxymethylcellulose. |
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| If you believe that a textile has been exposed to polyquats, there is strong evidence from industry testing that soaking it in a solution of anionic surfactants and water before laundering in a process where it could be exposed to fugitive dye or suspended soils can neutralize the polyquat charge. The easiest method would be a tablespoon of dish detergent such as Dawn or a laundry detergent with declared anionic surfactants as described above, per gallon of tepid water, soaked eight to twelve hours before washing. Wash with color catchers in a well-sorted load or completely separately as a precaution. | If you believe that a textile has been exposed to polyquats, there is strong evidence from industry testing that soaking it in a solution of anionic surfactants and water before laundering in a process where it could be exposed to fugitive dye or suspended soils can neutralize the polyquat charge. The easiest method would be a tablespoon of dish detergent such as Dawn or a laundry detergent with declared anionic surfactants as described above, per gallon of tepid water, soaked eight to twelve hours before washing. Wash with color catchers in a well-sorted load or completely separately as a precaution. |
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| | ===== - Scrud: The Dirtiest Word In Laundry ===== |
| | **Original Post:** [[https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/comments/1ob2zhh/scrud_the_dirtiest_word_in_laundry/|here by u/KismaiAesthetics]] **Editors Note:** There are a lot of images in this one, the images are very relevant. I'll include the image links and a description. Some are quite gross, click with caution if you have a weak stomach for slimy things. |
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| | === It’s Time To Talk About An Unpleasant Subject: Scrud === |
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| | Scrud is a colloquial term for the residue that can build up in washing machines. While HE machines are most susceptible to Scrud, any machine is capable of developing it. It’s a combination of mineral, detergent, soap and fabric softener residues, along with fugitive dye, lint and soils. Scrud is not generally harmful to human health, but it’s disgusting AF and it can smell - both due to the contents and because Scrud supports bacterial growth including biofilms. Scrud often has a waxy, flaky texture that “feathers” when compressed. Other forms can include granules or sheets. |
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| | **Warning: Sensitive Readers May Be Terminally Grossed Out:** |
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| | Here are some images of Scrud posted here in r/Laundry by other Redditors. |
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| | **You may first notice Scrud on your textiles:** |
| | * **//<Image of a prurple fabric with yellow flakes>//** with text: lighter colored scrub on colored knits [[https://preview.redd.it/scrud-the-dirtiest-word-in-laundry-v0-2pdsa3cp65wf1.jpg?width=609&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af93d8a5748df16212e702e0ad2df847b2489f1a|Reddit Image Link]] |
| | * **//<Image of a white fabric with black dots>//** with text: darker Scrud on white cotton blend [[https://preview.redd.it/scrud-the-dirtiest-word-in-laundry-v0-2x2f43cp65wf1.jpg?width=636&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=122b84029bcc983244e889d50eb33b3b0e8c6bf2|Reddit Image Link]] |
| | * **//<Image of a light fabric with black and brown dots>//** with text: dScrud on jersey knit [[https://preview.redd.it/scrud-the-dirtiest-word-in-laundry-v0-8bs394cp65wf1.jpg?width=603&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2b5b75375846965201abfb6c840a0368310f4ce8|Reddit Image Link]] |
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| | **Or in the wash basket:** |
| | * **//<Image of a paper towel with brown and black slime>//** with text: Scrud wipe down of drum [[https://preview.redd.it/scrud-the-dirtiest-word-in-laundry-v0-yze4zyio75wf1.jpg?width=1080&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=e3b6a99c0b4316a9f35185484cdae5cd9979c02e|Reddit Image Link]] |
| | * **//<Image of a top load washer full of water with floating brown slime>//** with text: Scrud in rinse water [[https://preview.redd.it/scrud-the-dirtiest-word-in-laundry-v0-siijsxio75wf1.jpg?width=1068&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2ee9b9b41147f7565d93a0a1dca65255507f3b98|Reddit Image Link]] |
| | * **//<Image of a chunks of black and brown hard scrud>//** with text: Particularly appaling scrud from abused machine [[https://preview.redd.it/scrud-the-dirtiest-word-in-laundry-v0-sv040zio75wf1.jpg?width=1080&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=0a3aaae9a5ec77b0aed4f1bb86d03108c92a72a4|Reddit Image Link]] (trigger warning) |
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| | **Or around things like the tumble vanes:** |
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| | * **//<Image of inside of top load washer with black chunky slime>//** with text: Scrud in tub [[https://preview.redd.it/scrud-the-dirtiest-word-in-laundry-v0-4lcvyf4q75wf1.jpg?width=867&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=058d05e66de8ad0a6b3a06bb204256eded5c81b3|Reddit Image Link]] (trigger warning) |
| | * **//<Image of the back side of a top load washer's impeller>//** with text: Scrud behind impeller [[https://preview.redd.it/scrud-the-dirtiest-word-in-laundry-v0-hpioil5q75wf1.jpg?width=1080&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=f29273ee31413aa35d125c5c58ae3798494a651f|Reddit Image Link]] (trigger warning) |
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| | === What Causes Scrud? === |
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| | The biggest contributor to Scrud is naturally-occurring minerals in tap water. The higher the calcium and total alkalinity of wash water, the more Scrud forming potential. When minerals start to build up, it’s usually not in isolation, though, especially in North American machines without boost heaters. There’s usually a soap or detergent component. Soaps (made from alkali-treated fats and oils) are especially notorious for causing Scrud, and soaps are now found in many mainstream washing products such as All Free & Clear as well as “green” products and boutique fragranced products. Fabric softener can also contribute to Scrud formation. As the Scrud forms, it traps dye, soils and lint in the layers, and any oils or fats can turn rancid. Bacteria can feed on these trapped soils and oils. |
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| | === What Can I Do To Prevent Scrud? === |
| | * Wash on hot periodically. Scrud is more soluble in high wash temperatures. |
| | * Avoid soapy products and ingredients - anything with cocoate/oleate/palmate/sunflowerate ingredients = bad news if you have water prone to Scrud formation. Same with liquid castile soaps. This rule especially pertains to homemade “detergent” hacks that use hard soaps like Fels-Naptha, Zote or Ivory - these are fine as spot treaters, but don’t rinse away in automatic laundry machines. |
| | * Don’t use liquid fabric softener you can’t see through or scent beads that promise to soften |
| | * Consider a citric acid rinse product as discussed at [[https://www.reddit.com/r/laundry/comments/1nhdr0r//|r/laundry/comments/1nhdr0r/]] - these work to remove the minerals that are required for Scrud formation and help rinse away excess detergent. They also make your laundry feel and smell great. |
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| | === How to get rid of Scrud: === |
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| | Citric acid is the best way to clean Scrud from your machine, and various companies sell it to do just that, at a premium price. One has the audacity to tell you not to use citric acid for machine cleaning and descaling, and then literally has a link on the same page to sell you their $15/dose descaling product. Which is 85% citric acid. The brass ones on some marketing departments. |
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| | 1/2 cup / 125 mL of cheap citric acid powder right in the drum, and either the machine clean cycle (preferred) or the hottest / longest possible wash cycle (with “Sanitize” enabled, if your machine has it) will get your machine clean and Scrud-free by dissolving mineral and soap/detergent buildup. If you have a top loader without a machine clean cycle, use a high-fill hot wash setting, and once agitation starts, pause the machine for an hour to allow the citrate to do the work, then allow the cycle to finish. Follow your machine’s instructions for filters and strainers that may need cleaning after this treatment. Check the drum for chunks after the clean cycle and wipe them out before repeating if they’re present. No sense trying to dissolve something you can wipe away. |
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| | Machines that haven’t been cleaned regularly, have been exposed to the bullshit that is “homemade detergent” or have had other soap-containing products used in them may have a severe layer of Scrud buildup. The telltale sign is that they will foam during a cleaning cycle with citric acid. I cannot be emphatic enough - citric acid does not foam. You can shake and shake and shake a citric acid solution, and the bubbles disappear instantly. If there’s foam in the machine at any point in the cleaning cycle, there’s still retained Scrud getting removed. The absolute worst machines can take 8-12 cleaning cycles to get completely clean and suds-free. Be patient. The anti-Scrud chemistry works as inevitably as Jennifer Lopez ruins a feature film. |
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| | Once your machine has achieved a clean, suds-free state, a final cleaning cycle with just household chlorine bleach, in the dose recommended by your machine’s manual will provide some additional disinfection coverage to those shiny clean parts. It’s a bonus round, but worthwhile. |
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| | Starting from a new or cleaned machine, you should run a citric acid cleaning cycle somewhere between every 30-75 cycles, depending on your water hardness (harder, towards the more frequent softer to the less-frequent) |
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| | There's more information about sourcing citric acid and discussion of the various price and purity options at r/laundry/comments/1nhdr0r/. |
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| | **Editors Note:** See your washing machine manual for machine maintenance, how to clean your machine, if you have a filter that needs to be cleaned, and what type of product to use to best clean your machine. |
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